Monday, July 28, 2014

It's the little things (okay, and the big things)

Faster than seems possible, it's approaching the day when Mackenzie and I will be saying goodbye to one home temporarily so that we can go back to our other home. For the first time in two and a half years, we'll be going back to the US!

While I am very excited to go back home, see family & friends, visit all my favorite places in Washington, and eat American food, I'm also realizing that I have less than two months now to say goodbye (for six months) to the things I love so much about Thailand and Southeast Asia. Of course it helps to know that I'll be back here pretty soon; I'm sure the months in the US will fly by just as fast or faster as it seems like my first term over here has.

So what will I miss about life here? The obvious and most important answer is my friends. Our neighborhood, our office, our church, our weekly pizza night - I'll miss all the people I see at these places. (And I'll continue to miss my friends who live in Vientiane, too!) I can't count all the ways that my Mukdahan family has welcomed, loved, and helped me throughout the year I have lived here and beforehand, too.

Other than this big thing, there are other, smaller good or just everyday things that come to mind when I think of this place. I'm sure I won't think of them all, but I've been thinking about some of them.

- I think of sounds:

Tropical birdsong, in the mornings and evenings especially.* Doves cooing and murmuring. The sound of a motorbike starting up. The rumble of the gate to a house being pulled open or pushed shut on its wheeled track. Thai, Isaan, and Lao being spoken. A tuktuk going past on the main road. The little red ice cream truck. The distinctive beat of traditional-style Isaan or Lao music (though I really prefer it not accompanied by loud, drunken karaoke parties). The radio advertisements playing inside Big C and Tesco Lotus. The trucks that go by blaring their political or product advertisements. Cicadas and bullfrogs during certain seasons. House geckos chirping a warning. Tukkaes, or Tokay geckos, calling from outside. The cycling of air conditioning units. The quiet dripping of the water filter. The hiss of a gas stove. Dramatic peals of thunder and tropical downpours.

*There's one very distinctive birdcall that I will especially miss: that of the Greater Coucal. It's not a flashy, bright-colored bird, but it sounds pretty cool. If you'd like to hear a sample, this is what it sounds like (and also what the bird looks like).

- I think of scents:

Flowers that release their perfume at night. The street after a heavy rainfall.
The type of laundry soap we always use. Grilled chicken or river fish sold by the roadside. Freshly steamed sticky rice. The various kinds of Thai food being cooked for lunch at the office. The pungent, sometimes almost pleasant odor of durian for sale. Seafood and other strong-smelling foods being prepared for sale at Big C - though sometimes it's a bit too strong to be at all enjoyable. Fish sauce being used in cooking. Fresh, hot khao piak or pho (noodle soup). The way the smell of lime juice lingers on your hands after you squeeze a wedge of lime over your meal. Freshly sliced mangoes. Incense from a spirit house or a wat (Buddhist temple). The bug-killing spray we use to kill cockroaches, ants, and spiders (okay, I won't actually miss that, even though it's usually either floral or citrus scented here).

- I think of sights:

The beautiful array of plant life, including so many flowers. Colorful butterflies and dragonflies. Impressively huge moths and beetles (as long as they stay outside!). Brightly-colored Thai flags - or Lao, depending on which side of the border I'm on.
All the wares for sale at markets. Rows of brilliant, traditional wraparound skirts (sinhs) in a myriad of patterns and hues. Golden spires and rooftops of temples. Water buffaloes and cows grazing by the side of the road - or crossing it. Chickens and dogs, and the occasional cat, trotting down narrow lanes. Geckos darting up the wall. Schoolchildren in their uniforms, coming home from school in songthaews or on the back of motorbikes, sometimes three or more on a bike. Huge, brightly-painted tour buses crawling through the town. Rows of tuktuks waiting for passengers at tourist locations and bus stations. Ornate signs and designs all over, in honor of the Royal Family. The Mekong River. Seemingly endless ricefields just outside the city. Green, rolling hills and mountains once you get even further outside of the city. Busy, bustling Centralplaza shopping centers. A 7-11 at every corner. People smiling, putting their palms together, and bowing their heads in the traditional greeting - a wai or a nop, depending on the language.

- I think of tangible and non-tangible sensations:

The smoothness of a silk sinh (traditional wraparound skirt). The electric start button for a motorbike - or kickstarting it. The slight stickiness of a fallen dok champa (plumeria/frangipani) blossom. The near-burn that comes from grabbing a handful of fresh sticky rice right out of the basket (totally worth it). The bliss of an air-conditioned room after coming indoors. The breeze coming off the Mekong. The relative cool of a cloudy, rainy-season day. The soothing softness of my cats' fur - the two of them distinct from one another.* The cloth steering wheel cover that keeps the steering wheel from burning my hands when the car has sat in the sun for a while. The squishy hollowness of an unopened pomelo fruit. The smoothness of a mango skin. The bristliness of the outside of a rambutan.

*Yes, cats in general are not unique to SE Asia. But our cats are, and we aren't taking them back to the US with them, so we will be missing them like crazy.

- I think of flavors:

Each and every one of my favorite Thai and Lao main dishes (I won't list them all, because it would be a very long list and I'd get too hungry in the process. You can ask me sometime). Specific meals from my favorite restaurants in Vientiane. Coconut milk used in cooking. Fresh-made "Lao bread" - also known as baguettes. The wide array of tropical fruits, most of which I've already posted about: passionfruit, mangoes, mangosteens, rambutans, lychees, limes, pineapple, rose apples, dragonfruit, guava, coconut, tamarind, etc.
Frozen fruit bars in these flavors (made with real fruit juice). Homemade Lao ice cream. Mango yogurt. Passionfruit jam. Jelly desserts made of coconut milk and rice flour. The kinds of fresh green vegetables that you can't really get back home - most of which I don't even know an English name for. Potato chips with specially SE Asian flavors. Salty-sour-sweet limeade.

Thankfully, as I said, I doubt I'll have too much time to miss these things, since I fully expect to be enjoying all the people and things I have been missing in the US while we're home there. But it's good to remind myself what we'll be coming back to, at the end of these upcoming six months.